Taghazout

We had  no idea when we reached Camping Atlantica, how long we might stay for. The norm was one or two nights, maybe three at the most, depending on how tired we were from our endeavours.

We stayed at Atlantica for nearly three weeks! We just loved the place, and the people.

Atlantica 'street' signs added to the feel of the site.

Our confidence had grown since our visit to the Casbah and so we decided to get the local bus into Taghazout. It's not uncommon to see people flag the bus down in between bus stops in Morocco, it's even nicer to see that the driver will actually stop for them! 

'Move down the......Oh....'

Mind you, that doesn't mean that they will always get on to, what will quite often be, a very crowded bus. One local man who wanted to get on with a huge bale of straw (I kid you not) was told by the driver, that he would have to wait for the next bus. I love that!

Surfers Mecca

For those who are in the know, Taghazout is something of a surfers paradise, attracting surfers from around the world. I'd love to be able to surf and, many years ago, had a lesson (just the one, mind) in Newquay in Cornwall, which was followed by four exhausting hours in the sea trying to stand up on the board!
That was back when I wore a younger mans clothes and so I think that, for me at least, that ship has sailed.

Too rich for my blood

Surfer dude ambitions aside, it was still nice to see the surfers out there giving it their all, while we sipped on our Cappuccinos and watched in admiration.

Two Cappuccinos and a Surfing lesson please...

I did shop around for a 'boogie' board while we were there, I can do that! But, they started at 200 euros, even in value for money Morocco! Needless to say, we passed on that offer and decided that we would buy a cheaper version of the real thing, in Decathlon, in time for the warmer weather in Greece.

Wonderful views out across the Atlantic Ocean

It's fair to say (I think) that Taghazout is a bit frayed around the edges, and not a little whiffy, here and there but, it's a nice place to spend an afternoon and, the food is more than acceptable. I just wish I'd known about it when I was in my twenties! Right then, where do we catch the bus back to Camping Atlantica?

Casbah Caid Ali

We were both surprised when we arrived here, to find just one more couple on site. They were a French couple in a caravan and, apart from them, the place was deserted.

The site was pleasant enough although it did have the look of somewhere that was starting to show signs of, either a lack of care or, more likely, a lack of funds for maintenance.

The pool area was quite run down and the pool was filthy. Whether that was because the pool was closed for the winter or because they were not getting enough paying guests to finance the upkeep, I don't know.

The main draw here, of course, is Casbah Caid Ali. The owners, Moroccan and French, are renovating it, and it's possible to rent a room for the night in there.

You can pay a very modest fee, for a tour of the Casbah, which we did. The French lady, I didn't get her name, is as fascinating as the building.

It's worth booking the tour, even if you don't intend to stay for the night. I could have listened to her all day. As it was, the tour lasted for a good hour and a half and she left me a whole lot wiser where Moroccan culture and history is concerned.

The Moroccan owner speaks very good English which, for us at least, was wonderfully refreshing and went a long way to making us feel a whole lot better about being in Morocco, as well as giving us a better understanding regarding Moroccan attitudes towards the English.

The stay here gave us the confidence to start venturing out in to the villages and shops. Looking back, we had been a bit pathetic but, until you understand that the people staring at you, isn't aggressive or threatening but mere curiosity and, given the apparent state of relations between the Western and Muslim world, I think we can be forgiven.

We cycled in to the village to get some eggs and bread, and were greeted with warm smiles and a very polite manner. We were starting to feel a whole lot more relaxed, and that meant that we could get more enjoyment out of our visit to Morocco, instead of dashing round, looking at everything through the van windows!

Casablanca Mall

I particularly wanted to have a bite to eat, and visit, at Ricks Cafe in Casablanca.
Anyone who knows the film, will know that not one scene of it was filmed in Casablanca. Even so, the interior of Ricks Cafe has reproduced the film set in it's restaurant and I don't see any harm in joining the tourist trail in having a look.

After our tour in the Hassan ll Mosque, we walked the half kilometer or so, to Ricks Cafe, only to find that it closes at 3pm and doesn't re-open until 6.30pm!

Only slightly deflated, we decided to visit the Mall that we had passed, in the taxi on the way to the mosque. We hailed a Petit taxi, I love being able to hail a cab! Just try it in the UK, not allowed unless it's a black cab, and you won't see many of them empty!

Morocco Mall. Casablanca

The taxi cost 100 dirham back to the Mall. It's an eye opener in the sense that it's not what I expected to find in Casablanca. On the other hand, it's just like any other big Mall, or shopping centre that you might visit.

Still, we had to schlep around the many clothes shops (naturally) all the while being careful not to actually buy anything!

Aquarium

On the ground floor, you will come across a huge aquarium which is pretty darn impressive but, doesn't photograph too well, even without flash, due to the curved glass and reflections.

Eventually, as you do, we find ourselves in the Food Hall. We hadn't eaten anything all day, and were both ravenous. I'm almost ashamed to say that we had a chicken burger from Burger King, with fries. I know, I know but, in our defence, nothing else was tempting us and, in Burger Kings defence, it was absolutely delicious!

I have to tell you briefly about my visit to the Mens Room at the Mall. I headed for the urinals, the first I'd seen in six weeks and, I suspect, still something of a novelty over here. While I was doing my 'business' the Washroom attendant appeared at my shoulder, brandishing 4 sheets of toilet roll, which he waved in my face. Honestly, there's service and then there's service. I just shook my head, both in declining his offer, and in disbelief. Much still to learn I think....

*************************

Outside the Mall Sue noticed that the Imax was showing the new Star Wars film. At best, it was going to be in French which, as you may know, is widely spoken here. I thought I'd ask anyway, nothing ventured, right?

Imax. Casablanca

Who knew? There was to be a screening at 10pm, in English! Well, that sorted our evening out. We got a cab back to the site and ordered the same cab to take us back to the Imax at 9.30pm.

The film was amazing in 3D but, I did find that I spent too much time marveling at the effects rather than enjoying the movie. I would describe it as feeling like you're on the set watching it being filmed and, to be honest, I'm not sure that I like that as much as watching in Cinemascope or, whatever today's equivalent is

The next day we both had headaches, which I put down to our eyes doing things through the 3D glasses, which displeased them. We had a great night though, what with our big box of sweet popcorn and coke. All in all, a rare treat for us both.

Top of page 

Casablanca

Casablanca was a tricky one. For a start, it's a big city! As with any big city, you should cherry pick what you do or, try to see. Being in the van meant we had to go on a site 23 kilometres outside of the city, a place called Camping International Oasis. 

It's level and mostly gravel. It was peaceful for the most part, save for dog barking, and the Police using it as a barracks, odd but, there you are.

The showers are a bit scruffy but, they don't smell, and they are good and powerful, and steaming hot!

One pain, well actually no, two. The first was the area for the grey waste and cassette empty are under a manhole type cover three quarters of the way down the site. 

The other pain was that none of the fresh water taps worked which meant that water had to be collected from a single tap on the other side of the reception building. We were told that the taps on the site would be working 'Maybe tomorrow' yeah right, we've all heard that one before.

If you are planning on staying here in your van, just check what the price is, before you set up. He overcharged us and I know it for a fact but, as we hadn't asked, we couldn't dispute the figures that he presented us with. Rachid is the man you'll deal with. He was a great help, I wouldn't deny it but, come settling up time, suddenly it was, charge for the van, cost per night per person, cost for electric and, cost for the showers. Ok, you got me this time Rachid but, that's not the way to secure future bookings.

******************************

Back to Casablanca. If you visit on your way in to Morocco, you may well feel inclined to visit the Souk, the Medina, and everything else that Morocco has to throw at you. We were on our way back to Tangier some six weeks after we'd landed in Morocco and, nice as they are, once you've been to a souk and lost yourself in a medina, and are on your tenth tagine or serving of brochettes, it just doesn't have the same appeal.

Hassan 11 Mosque. Casablanca

So, we chose to have the guided tour of the Mosque. It was, I felt, a tad pricey at 120 dirham, or around 12 euros, each. Don't hesitate to do it though, it's amazing inside but, the tour just felt a bit rushed and in all honesty, we weren't much wiser when we came out, than when we went in. 

Elaborate prayer room

You can also take pictures inside which, apparently, wasn't permitted at one time. This is a great plus, it would be such a shame not to get some of the amazing sights that greet you, on film, as it were.

Balcony

The tour times are listed outside and, you won't be allowed in during prayer. The tours start once the mosque has emptied after prayer.

We were told by our guide that the mosque can hold 20,000 people inside and, up to another 80,000 in the surrounding areas. Busiest times are during Ramadan so, if you don't like crowds, plan your visit outside of Ramadan!

Sue with head covering.

What to wear. Just be respectful. Head wear is not a requirement for women, even inside the  mosque but, covered arms and legs is expected. It's also shoes off, while in the prayer room, and bags are provided to put them in.

I knew that, at some point after our visit to the Mosque, we would end up at the shopping Mall It's almost like I'm clairvoyant!