Merzouga

We rested up for a couple of days after our drive through the Atlas Mountains, at Camping Le Soleil at Tinnerhir, just the other side of Todra Gorge, before setting off for Merzouga.

Camping Le Soleil at Tinnerhir

It seems that Merzouga is a 'must do' place and we've met a few people over here who are headed that way.

Welcome to La Tradition

Another epic drive and, as we get closer, we start to see more and more signs for camp sites, Riads and the occasional Auberge which, translates as 'hostel'. Doesn't have the same exotic ring to it as 'Auberge' does it?

As we get to the village of Merzouga, we are intercepted by some local men one of whom keeps on insisting that I open the window wider, or lower, depends how you look at it, even though it's low enough for me to stick my head out, if needed. This isn't doing anything for our jitters.

Electric Hook up at La Tradition. Don't knock it, it worked!

He tells me that the village is too small for the motorhome to drive in and asks where we are planning on staying. We check our book and when we tell him La Tradition, his helpfulness goes in to overdrive.

He asks us to wait a second, and disappears around the corner. He returns on his motorbike, well, scooter actually, and beckons for us to follow him, which we do.

'We know where the well is'

A couple of minutes of sandy road later, and we pull in to La Tradition, right at the foot of the dunes. You couldn't get closer, if you tried. Our escort has a quick exchange with someone at the site, then roars off, with a wave.

Our host shows us where to park, 'Go next to that van' then insists that we join him for mint tea. We are no sooner seated than the hard sell starts.

This is a tourist area after all and, there are only two other vans on site.

'Tagine anyone?'

He tells us about the package, which comprises, a trek through the dunes by camel, with a guide, followed by a trip in a four by four through the desert. 

The price? an eye watering 1,500 dirham! or, 150 euros! Total time spent pursuing this Saharan dream? 3 hours.

It's difficult to hide shock and surprise sometimes, this was one of those times.

He spots it and throws in, 'It includes 2 nights camping fees, with electric, and you get a chicken tagine in the Riad restaurant, when you get back'

Well....what would you have done?

150 euros though. That was nearly two weeks budget for us! We tell him that we'll think about it, as it's a lot of money. He tells us, predictably, not to think about it for too long, as other vans may turn up, and we'll lose the chance to go.

It's the day before Christmas eve. What would you have done? We don't have any presents to open and, if we don't do this, what exactly are we going to do, having driven all this way?

Half an hour later, we cave and tell him that we'll do it. I give Sue the money to pay him so I don't feel the pain too much.

'I can see the pub from here!'

'9am, he tells us, or when it's not so cold' Oh good.

Next morning we get ready to mount our steeds. I'm not big on riding camels, we did it in Egypt some years back, and it's a bit like riding the donkeys at the beach back home, once you've done it, well, you've done it haven't you?

Still, off we go. I have to admit, I enjoyed it. The sun was climbing slowly in the sky, warming our bodies, and the quiet of the desert was really quite soothing. It was an altogether pleasant experience. An hour and a half on a camel, was stretching it slightly though!

'No, I don't think you can.....'

At the end of the camel ride, the 4x4 was waiting, as promised, and he took us for a spin through the desert, not up and down dunes, as I'd feared, but across the flats. He pointed out a Bedouin camp, where the children waved at us, then sped away, climbing steadily as we went.

Abandoned Mining Village

At the top of the only hill for miles around, we stopped and he told us to take pictures. So we did. With that, we were back in the jeep and off again, passing through a long deserted village, that we were told used to house people who worked at the long since closed, mineral mine.

'I can hear the sea!'

We got back some 3 hours later and that night, had our promised chicken tagine in the, otherwise empty, restaurant. We slept well after our mini adventure in the desert. The next morning would be Christmas day and we agreed to get back on the road first thing. Primarily so we could take our minds off what has always been family time, since we could remember. 

Christmas Eve sunset at La Tradition

It was going to be strange being away from home at Christmas, we knew that, but, when the reality hits you on Christmas eve, it's harder than you could possibly imagine. We felt so far away from everyone and everything, and it hurt us both like hell.