Villages

We visited a number of villages in Morocco and, as you'd expect, they vary in size and also in condition. Some look very modern and some look positively medieval by comparison.

You rarely see one without a mosque though. Mosque aside, the level of existence, quite literally in some cases, varies greatly. 
I cycled from the camp site at Le Calme to the nearby village of, Ida Ougourd, and it was practically deserted. All the same, three 'shops' were open. 

Don't picture your local shop in this case, these were no more than a room measuring approx 10 feet x 7 or 8 feet, with a window at the front, through which you could both view the wares, and be served.

Village shops, felt a bit tragic.

There was hardly anything that I wanted to buy but, I desperately wanted to give the man some trade, he looked so sad. I asked him how it was going, in French, obviously, he just looked at me and shook his open hand from side to side in the international sign of, 'so,so'. I bought 4 packets of biscuits that I didn't need, nor really want and handed over about 2 euros. Hardly enough to put a smile on his face for the rest of the day was it? I cycled away and couldn't help but think how tragic it all looked.

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Another village, Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, which was about a 2km walk uphill from the Belle Vue site near Meknes was equally grim. All the shops were on a steep, narrow street, and they all appeared to be selling the same thing. Equally grim, equally distressing, for me anyway. 

Post Office. I got a telling off from the Police for taking this

I don't understand the people that visit these places and talk about the 'character' that they have. That kind of attitude just strikes me as arrogant, and superior. Any fool can see that they are struggling along, and in some very squalid conditions at that.

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One of the larger towns that we visited, Tamraght Ouzdar, before heading over to the market, had it all, by local standards anyway. A number of butchers shops showcasing sheep's heads and other such local delicacies. Stalls selling second hand clothes, live chickens, feet bound, under makeshift cages, it was both lively and crazy. 

They even had the local medicine men, maybe even miracle workers? selling cures for all, right there on the pavement. What's more, men of all ages were crowded round listening as the sellers pitched at them. 

'This new one, will make your toes curl...'

One guy was heating a length of metal which had a slight curve at one end. Local man, after local man, took their seat in front of him and exposed and aching leg or old wound. 

The 'practitioner' then took a coin, which he placed on the affected area, then tapped it, quite hard, with the heated, crooked poker. It was all I could do to not burst out laughing. 

Still, he generated some income for himself and the 'cured' seemed to leave happy enough. It was bizarre to watch something like that though, in this day and age.

I don't want to put anyone off from visiting villages to towns and, hopefully I won't. I figure that if you get as far as Morocco, you'll go to different places, large and small, and see for yourself, as indeed you should.